overview
Warm sunshine, even in the depths of winter, the scent of almond and orange blossom mixing gently with the evening jasmine, Seville, the Andalucian capital and the home of Carmen and Figaro, has a joyful atmosphere in an historic setting.
At its heart, the gold-encrusted Alcazar Palace and the third largest church in Christendom stand side by side amongst the labyrinth of old Moorish streets. Art lovers should visit the Fine Arts Museum with its superb collection of works by Spanish artists. There are a number of beautiful and ornate 'mudejar' style buildings, the best of which is the Casa Pilatos, a cool oasis with peaceful patios and elegant colonnades.
Walk through the city’s various neighbourhoods and absorb the atmosphere; the Barrio Santa Cruz is part of the former Jewish quarter (favoured by the nobility in the 17th century) and has narrow streets full of flowers and numerous restaurants and bars. Across the river Guadalquivir, the Barrio of Triana with its white houses overlooking the river, was traditionally the area where bullfighters and flamenco artists lived. The main shopping area is around the streets of Sierpes (a delightful, small, pedestrian street), San Pablo and Mendez Nunez.
Seville was the chief city of Roman Baetica and the capital of the Visigothic Kingdom. The Moors arrived in 712; in the 11th Century, after the fall of the Cordoban caliphs, the city became capital of the Almohad Kingdom. Sultan Yacoub Al Mansur (builder of Giralda) defeated the Christians at the Battle of Alarcos in 1195, but in 1248, King Ferdinand III of Castille, known as the Saint, captures the city from the Moors. With the discovery of America in 1492, many expeditions to the New World set sail from Seville. Amerigo Vespucci, the Florentine, who was determined to prove that Columbus’ discoveries were not the Indies, but a new continent to which his own name was later given; and Magellan, who set out to circumnavigate the world in 1519.
By 1503, the city’s trade with foreign ports had become so great that Isabel the Catholic formed the Casa de Contratacion (Exchange) to encourage and control all trade with America. Seville was now set for its golden age, and it became one of the richest cities in the world- complete with its own Tower of Gold on the banks of the river Guadalquivir.
This monopoly lasted until 1717 when the silting up of the River Guadalquivir caused the Exchange to move to Cadiz. Economic decline in Seville followed. However, the latter part of the twentieth century has seen a dramatic revival in Seville’s fortunes; the city is now one of the most affluent in Spain, attracting a wealth of investment in industry, commerce and leisure. Expo 92 was a tremendous success and introduced visitors to the city from all over the world.
Most visitors walk around Seville, but the hotel has bikes which you're welcome to borrow, so you can glide around the city and simply follow your nose. On you way, stop off the Gothic Catedral, one of the biggest in Europe. Its ancient tower, the Giralda, was built by the Moors. You can climb up to the top for fine views across the city (from the hotel it's a few minutes by bike or a 15-minute walk). Close by is the Alcazar, a palace in a walled city, much like the Alhambra in Granada. It is a sublime example of Moorish architecture and not to be missed. La Casa de Pilatos, a beautiful old palace, is just around the corner from the hotel. It’s open to the public and is quite spectacular.
The Great Exhibition of 1929 created one of those magnificent old-world arenas that could never get built today. A huge tract of land behind the Alcazar was turned into pleasure gardens, lakes, squares and museums. Part of Star Wars was filmed in Plaza des Espana, one of the architectural highlights of the city.
Refurbishment of the south bank came with the 1992 exposition, and you can walk by the river in some style. Gold bullion from the US was once shipped up the river and landed at the Torre del Oro. You can cross over to the south bank here and follow the water up to the museum of contemporary art.
Seville
is the birthplace of flamenco. Check out one of the city’s tascas bars where you can drink, eat and listen to great live flamenco. The hotel can point you in the right direction. A flamenco festival takes place in the city in September and October. Come in April for the week long Feria when women parade in colourful dresses, men ride immaculately groomed horses and everyone parties 'til dawn.
If you want a treat, pop into Seville’s grandest hotel, Alfonso XIII. It’s pomp and circumstance all the way, so drop in for a sherry, then loll around for a while.
Real Betis and Sevilla both play top-flight football in town. Surprisingly well-priced tickets are usually available for most games at short notice.
The bull ring is down by the river between the bridges on the north bank. Bull fights usually take place over Easter and during ferias.